The second part of our heritage trip across MP took us to Khajuraho and Orchha.
This stretch can be covered by road if coming from Gwalior. Orchha is a 2-3hr drive from Gwalior via Jhansi. Khajuraho is another 3hrs away. We had originally not planned for Khajuraho, but our driver for the Morena trip offered to take us there and said we can do it, it could be a bit of a long day, but will be worth it! And boy were we glad we stretched a bit.
Day 1 – We started early and headed for Khajuraho. Khajuraho is a 5hr drive from Gwalior. We reached there around 1pm. Khajuraho houses some amazing temples and is a UNESCO heritage site. It is visited every year by millions of foreigners who come to admire its architecture. Khajuraho set of monuments are clustered on the Western and Eastern side. If you are short on time, visit the Western side which has most of the prominent ones. Set in a beautiful, clean complex, surrounded by greenery, the temples are a photographer’s delight. There is an entry ticket to be purchased – ASI has a QR code which can be scanned to purchase them online. If you have time, a guide is highly recommended to understand the significance and intricacies of the carvings. While Khajuraho is known for the erotic sculptures, these comprise less than 10% of all the sculptures in the temples. The Lakshmanan temple is the major one, whose pics you would have seen. As you walk around stop and admire the detailing on the sculptors. The temple right behind it is the Mahadev temple which is the second most important one. You will see a few other temples which resemble the Lakshmanan temple in structure. The temple next to the Lakshmanan temple houses a Shivaling which is said to grow everyyear. It will easily take 1-2hrs to see the entire complex; more if its with a guide.
We pit stopped for lunch at Badri Seth Bhojanalay for their thali. The food is sumptuous and tasty.
Eastern side – this set of 3 temples (Vamana temple, Dulhadeo and Chaturbhuj temple) are not in the same complex and are about a 5mins drive from each other. Having a car is helpful. You don’t need a guide here as there are ASI people who manage the place and are happy to give you some understanding of the sculptors. Some of them have very unique figurines like Narasimha depicted as a lady and Ardhanarishwar (Dulhadeo temple), sculpture with face of Shiva, body of Brahma and legs of Krishna (Chaturbhuj temple) etc.
Orchha – we left Khajuraho around 5pm to head to Orchha, straight to our hotel to crash since it was a long day. We stayed at the MPT Sheesh Mahal which is located in the Orchha fort complex.
Day 2 – Orchha sightseeing.
The best thing about Orchha is that being a small town all sights are accessible by foot. You can walk around or take a electric auto (some even driven by women). Both Khajuraho and Orchha cater to a lot of foreign tourists so it’s very well organized and safe. Here are the top highlights of Orchha –
Orchha Fort Complex –
The biggest attraction in Orchha is the Fort complex comprising of 3 forts – Raja Mahal, Jehangir mahal and Rani Pravin Mahal. We bought our tickets at the entrance to the fort; an audio guide is available near the counter for those who want to explore it leisurely. Started with the Raja Mahal. Be prepared to be blown away by the size and intricacy of this fort. This is one of the best preserved fort in the country and is a stellar example of Bundeli architecture. This fort doesn’t have domes which is a significant piece of their architecture. Climb up to the top of the fort for a stunning view of the Chaturbhuj temple on one side and the Chattris and betwa river on the other. Infact from one of the windows you can see the deity of the Chaturbhuj temple. This was done so that the King and Queen can get a direct view to worship. Proceed then to Jehangir mahal built by Raja Bir Singh Deo for Jehangir whom he considered a friend. This is similar in structure to the Raja Mahal. Behind the Jehangir Mahal (or rather, near the main entrance) is Rani Pravin Mahal. This is a bit remotely located and we chose to see it from outside only.
Chaturbhuj temple –
This magnificent temple is the home to Gods Vishnu, Krishna, Ram and Sita. While you should go in to offer prayers, look to the right to see stairs to climb up to the top. This is actually called a Bhulbhulaiyya (Maze). You will realise since there are multiple stairs which lead to dead ends. Also the stairs are very high to climb so wear appropriate shoes and clothes. There are small kids who take the tourists through this maze to the top. Ask the guard at the base (near the deity) and he will guide you.
Orchha Chattris –
This was my highlight in Orchha. Had seen so many pictures of the Cenotaphs that I was looking forward to this. Cenotaph (Chattris) are memorials built for the rulers of Orchha. These are not burial places but memorials. The unique shape of the chattris adds to their majestic feel. Recommend viewing the Chattris at sunset against the bank of the river Betwa. There is a bridge which crosses the river and its a great photo point to view the Chattris with the sun at the back and reflection in the river. Walk a few meters from the bridge to go explore the chattris from inside.
Raja Ram Temple –
This is perhaps the ONLY temple in India where Lord Ram is worshiped as a King. Legend has it that he was coming from Ayodhya and decided to rest here. The main aarti at the temple happens 4 times a day and it ends with a Gun Salute. Sometimes the gun is fired sometimes it isn’t. Check with the hotel for the timings. The temple is also well guarded with police.
Places to Stay –
Khajuraho – while we didn’t stay at Khajuraho, there are a number of hotels available. MP Tourism has 2-3 properties, Ramada and another 7 star hotel ( incase you want to break the journey and rest).
Orchha – has 2 MP Tourism (MPT) properties. We stayed at MPT Sheesh Mahal to indulge in royalty. This is located in the fort complex and was the King’s Guesthouse, now converted into a hotel. The room was spacious and beautiful and service very good too! Not too expensive either! Number of rooms are limited though to 5-6 and get sold out on weekends and holidays.
The other option would be the MPT Betwa retreat located near the Chattris and betwa river. We chose the Sheesh Mahal since we wanted to experience the royal stay and it is located in the center of all tourist attractions.
Places to eat –
Khajuraho – Badri Seth bhojanalay – try their thali. Can be shared by 2.
Orchha – the restaurant at MPT Sheesh Mahal – the food is quite good.
Cafe No-mads – for a hippie vibe and continental and italian food incase you want a change from Indian. The pizza and cold coffee is good. Service is a little slow given the laid back vibes.
Orchha darbar restaurant – we had the Indian food and it was good. Try the daal roti and paneer. Again service was slow but food was tasty.
Pro-tips –
1. Get your tickets at the Orchha fort and that can be used for all the sights at Orchha. Make sure to keep it safely.. for a fee of Rs 10, it is definitely a steal.
2. Most sites close by 6pm and last entry is around 5/5:30pm. They have summer and winter closing times so do check before you go.
3. The Orchha fort, Chaturbhuj temple have a LOT of climbing in terms of stairs. So wear comfortable shoes and clothes. Some passages are narrow and the stairs are quite tall in height.
4. Food service in restaurants is slightly slow so do account for it. Orchha is a laid back town so do expect things to move slowly.
5. We did find Khajuraho and Orchha to be quite safe and people were around on the streets until about 8/8:30pm. But do exercise caution and not go towards the bridge or Chattris post sunset since it gets lonely.
Travel Responsibly & Mask Up!
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